Measurement units were invented for ease and standardization. When there is no specific unit of measurement, the measurements people consider will undoubtedly differ. Every existing object, device, etc. has a unit for measurement. The most suitable method currently available is relating the weight of the yarn to its length. In the textile industry, a unit is needed to specify yarn dimensions and for calculations in yarn preparation and fabric weaving. Units have been designated for the quantitative measurement of yarn, which we call yarn count. In the following, we will examine yarn measurement units.
Yarn Count or Yarn Number
Yarn count or yarn number is in fact the numerical expression of a yarn’s fineness. Since yarns are flexible and uneven, instead of measuring the diameter of yarns, their fineness is expressed in terms of length and weight.
Yarn Numbering
There are two yarn numbering systems: the direct system and the indirect system:
- In the direct system, the yarn count is the weight per unit length of yarn. In this method, we divide the weight of the yarn by its length. The direct system is used for measuring the count of silk yarn and synthetic fibers. The units used in the direct system are denier (den), tex (tex), decitex (dtex), millitex (mtex), and kilotex (ktex).
- In the indirect system, the yarn count is the ratio of unit length to unit weight of yarn. The counts obtained from the indirect system are the inverse of the direct system. The indirect system is used for numbering cotton, linen, wool, and asbestos yarns. The indirect system uses the English cotton count (Ne), metric (Nm), and French units.
Yarn Count Units
Denier
It is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of yarn. The higher the denier number, the thicker the yarn. For example, if 9,000 meters of yarn weighs 25 grams, its count will be 25 denier. This unit is represented by the symbol “den” and is usually used to express the count of continuous filament yarns. Deniers from 60 to 160 are used in carpet weaving, and finer counts (less than 60 denier) are usable in fabric weaving.
Tex
It indicates the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of yarn. For example, if 1,000 meters of yarn weighs 20 grams, the count of that yarn will be 20 tex. This unit is represented by the symbol “tex”.
Decitex
This unit indicates the weight in grams of 10,000 meters of yarn. For example, if 10,000 meters of yarn weighs 30 grams, its count will be 30 decitex. This unit is represented by the symbol “dtex” and is usually used to express the count of continuous filament yarns and fine yarns. For example, if a yarn’s count is 20 tex, its count will be 200 decitex. The relationship is written as 1 dtex = 10 tex.
Millitex
It indicates the weight in milligrams of 1,000 meters of yarn.
Kilotex
It is the weight in kilograms of 1,000 meters of yarn.
It should be noted that millitex is used for fine fibers, while kilotex is used for thick yarns and rope slivers. The metric unit (Nm) is less commonly used today.
Cotton Count (Ne)
This unit indicates the number of 840-yard lengths of yarn that weigh 1 pound. For example, if a yarn’s count is 20 (Ne 20), it means that 20 × 840 (16,800) yards of this yarn weigh 1 pound. This unit is represented by the symbol “Ne”.
Metric Count (Nm)
This unit indicates the length in meters of one gram of yarn. In other words, it is the number of meters that weigh 1 gram. For example, if 50 meters of yarn weighs one gram, the count of that yarn will be 50 metric (Nm 50). This unit is represented by the symbol “Nm”.
